Missoni
MILAN, February 17, 2008
By Sarah Mower
Missoni laid on a quietly intimate welcome to the opening of a chilly Milan fashion week—a smaller, cozier venue, a glass of spumante, a bite to eat beforehand. That set a civilized tone that extended to the clothes, which struck a grown-up note in enveloping graphic outerwear, muted colors, double-faced cashmere, flannel, mink, and crocodile clutches.It's certainly a refocusing of the brand's former something-for-everyone mélanges of items, and, reading between the inverted-trapeze ponchos and tweed-and-fur dresses, perhaps a deliberate effort to appeal to a luxury customer who won't be as affected by recession as an impulsive young dresser with a magpie eye for cute pieces. There were some beautiful things, notably a silk tulle mushroom-colored dress with a puffy collar that rose up around Lily Donaldson's face like a flower, and great metal wire and stone-studded belts and neckpieces. Still, the house expertise in knits was kept to a minimum in the flash of a raschel flame-knit coat lining and a matching dress, or a moss-stitch pullover paired with tailored pants. At a moment when the possibilities of knitwear are inspiring young designers, and sweater dressing is such a huge trend, the conservative-chic direction somehow submerged the sense that Missoni is a leading light in that field.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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