Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff opened a menswear label after meeting at Central Saint Martins in 2002. For two years, they've struggled to find a voice in womenswear, and now, under the aegis of New Generation sponsorship, they had their first chance to articulate a vision on the official catwalk. "Urban sophistication," Meadham tagged it, with Kirchhoff adding, "We're trying to think of professional women who want to look gorgeous in different moods—and we want to give them wardrobe essentials to do that."

As a slightly dark pair of grown-up biker-goths, their angle is oblique (in a good way). If they cut a brown wool business suit, it's well proportioned with a short jacket that has curved vents in back, and when they approach a motorcycle jacket, it ends up a hybrid of Coco and armor. Best in show, though, were their lace-and-chiffon blouses and long, sinuous skirts, which, when topped with a black Mongolian fur chubby, create a version of the long, drawn-out silhouette London is talking about.