What to make of the truck with the Moschino logo emblazoned on its side parked on the runway, the one from which the models trundled out? Creative director Rosella Jardini claimed it was simply how she delivered the goods. This season, those included a navy dress jacket complete with a chest full of medals, pins, and sequined anchor patches, as well as olive-drab outerwear with "epaulets" made from piles of brass buttons at the shoulders. Those cheeky military references and the runway gambit aside, this show turned out to be light on the kitsch factor that's come to be associated with the brand.

Instead, Jardini went sixties girly, from the models' curly mop tops right on down to their patent Mary Janes. She added gold sequined embroidery to ombré mohair minidresses, whipped Milan's de rigueur leopard print into trenches and short dresses with tiers of stiff ruffles, and discovered the many uses of black silk fringe. The latter turned up, among other places, on a three-button coat and on the pant legs of a V-neck jumpsuit. A lamb-fur coat with a standaway collar, a Victoriana dress with a high neck and bracelet sleeves, and a tucked-and-gathered black cocktail frock with a big bow at the waist were three good reasons Jardini should consider playing it straight more often.