Moschino
MILAN, February 19, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
What to make of the truck with the Moschino logo emblazoned on its side parked on the runway, the one from which the models trundled out? Creative director Rosella Jardini claimed it was simply how she delivered the goods. This season, those included a navy dress jacket complete with a chest full of medals, pins, and sequined anchor patches, as well as olive-drab outerwear with "epaulets" made from piles of brass buttons at the shoulders. Those cheeky military references and the runway gambit aside, this show turned out to be light on the kitsch factor that's come to be associated with the brand.Instead, Jardini went sixties girly, from the models' curly mop tops right on down to their patent Mary Janes. She added gold sequined embroidery to ombré mohair minidresses, whipped Milan's de rigueur leopard print into trenches and short dresses with tiers of stiff ruffles, and discovered the many uses of black silk fringe. The latter turned up, among other places, on a three-button coat and on the pant legs of a V-neck jumpsuit. A lamb-fur coat with a standaway collar, a Victoriana dress with a high neck and bracelet sleeves, and a tucked-and-gathered black cocktail frock with a big bow at the waist were three good reasons Jardini should consider playing it straight more often.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
