You could call shrouding feathers in tulle and covering gem-bright Swarovski crystals with metal chains a concession of sorts to the so-called return of minimalism on the part of maximalist Maurizio Percoraro. But then again, probably not: It only meant more embellishments. When he wasn't busy embroidering his alpacas and bouclés—witness a standout pair of dresses with fringes of beads that swished back and forth as the models made their way down the runway—he was playing around with their volumes. The sleeves of one coat melted from the elbow to the wrist in softly undulating folds, while cocktail dresses came draped at the back or billowing with extra fabric.

At times, the lavish beadwork and volume play, a big trend for several seasons now, gave this collection a been there, done that feeling. But it was not without its beautiful pieces: Take a sack dress and a similarly roomy coat, both patchworked with individually tie-dyed squares of silk velvet that had the subtle shadings of stained glass. Props to Pecoraro for doing what he believes in.