February 06, 2008 New York
What he is about, judging by today's outing, is spare elegance. It was easy to imagine Lisa Fonssagrivesor those Robert Palmer girlsin Kühne's combination of fifties and eighties elements. He cited Catherine Deneuve in The Hunger as a reference, but there was no tinge of vintage. Instead, there was a strictness of tailoring on, for instance, a seamed cocktail dress (which, in passing, revealed a geometric span of the back) that felt subtle and right for the times. Shoulders were strong and molded, as on a crisp white shirt worn with black pants, and coats were angular and asymmetric. Only the basket-weave pieces broke the purity of the line. The show was held among the clouds, in the Glass House at the top of the Chelsea Arts Tower, but Kühne demonstrated that his feet are planted on terra firma.