Nathan Jenden
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 12, 2008
By Tim Blanks
Loyalty might be the one human trait that trumps all others, so the sight of Diane von Furstenberg in the front row of her right-hand man Nathan Jenden's solo show was positively heartwarming. The clothes, on the other hand, had a chilly quality. Black in shade and Edwardian in their bustled, ruffled proportions, they looked like the weeds of a New Romantic widow, an impression that was compounded by the hair and makeup. If such a notion bleats "Eighties!" to you, you wouldn't be far wrong. Jenden showed a pouf skirt with a sailor-collared, ruffled shirt, and a skirt and bodice (with matching mask!) laden with hardware and stones that could have been lifted from a masquerade ball at Steve Strange's Blitz. The designer was carried away by construction: Almost everything was seamed, pleated, tortured, even—to within a millimeter of its glamorous life. Artifice ruled, but Jenden's show notes talked about "Tudor ladies at the court of a 21st-century samurai," so he himself clearly wasn't unaware of the tricksy, costumey connotations.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
