Pollini
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 19, 2008
By Tim Blanks
Rifat Ozbek's past is colorful enough to make you wish you'd lived it with him—and so he offers you clothes that make that a distinct possibility. In his latest collection for Pollini, he was inspired by his teenage life as a glam-rocking Central Saint Martins student in London. To a charging soundtrack of vintage Roxy Music and David Bowie, Ozbek offered his own take on the golden years of glitter (necessarily abstracted because no one has that kind of joyful innocence anymore). Was that Amanda Lear's beret we just saw? And didn't that printed culotte suit echo Ziggy Stardust? Quite frankly, if this was your era, Ozbek would have had you at the hello of an obi-wrapped coat-dress with fox-trimmed cuffs and hem. Bowie's early seventies fascination with Japanese style was mirrored in the Kansai-like stiffness of fabrics like silk brocade (cut into huge, flared "samurai" pants) or kimono prints used as a print on a chiffon shirt or as the trim on a tweed kimono jacket.Ozbek wanted to convey a luxurious tone—the cuffs of a tweed coat were wreathed in huge paillettes, its neckline was swathed in flame-dyed fox, the matching boots were orange. But it was really his unholy enthusiasm for a fabulous moment in his own history that energized the presentation. And that was enough to compensate for clunkers like a sequin-bodiced cocktail dress that might have graced Angie Bowie in one of her less glittering nights down at the Sombrero. BTW, shouts out to Erickson Beamon for the jewelry.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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