Ports 1961
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 4, 2008
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Tia Cibani's muse was an imaginary creature she called Lassair, which translates from Gaelic as "Flame." It was all about mythology, her program notes explained: "Ports 1961 falls under the spell of a Scottish winter with its dark moods and whimsical auras that tease the subconscious mind."Unfortunately, the spell was so complete that Cibani failed to realize that parts of her Fall collection had been magically turned into costume by the powers of over-styling. It was difficult to conjecture where a woman could wear a bandeau dress with a large wooden buckle at the bust. And a faux-fur cloak not only read Braveheart but obscured what looked like a desirable slim dress underneath.
Thankfully, a few similarly of-the-moment dresses did make it into plain view, including a cable sweater version in a rich shade of green and a jacquard number that was ingeniously draped and tied in front. The pants were also well tailored (which can't be said for every runway this week). But in order to move forward, Ports 1961 needs to put less emphasis on storytelling and more on clothes that work in real life.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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