Preen
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 3, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Now in their second season in New York, Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton settled on a pair of very American inspirations for their Fall collection: Kurt Cobain's grunge and the Adrian Lyne romp 9 1/2 Weeks. The two may seem strange bedfellows, but the London-based duo made a connection in—wait for it—gentlemen's dressing gowns. The Nirvana frontman, it turns out, occasionally wore a robe onstage, and Kim Basinger's character borrowed her lover Mickey Rourke's too-big-for-her overcoat.Lily Donaldson shrugged on a great-looking oversize plaid cocoon jacket with a shearling collar to open the show. More plaids followed on blouson tops and high-waist men's trousers, a shirtdress with its hem looped up in back, and a voluminous chiffon parachute dress cinched with a narrow belt held together by a plastic bangle. Less Seattle and more Manhattan circa 1986 were a silvery satin tank and matching paper bag-waist pants, a Lurex robe coat, a long navy trench lined in paisley that matched the model's shirtwaist dress, and a hot plunge-front wrap dress.
White croc leggings and electric-blue sequin pants looked wrong. But absent those missteps, Bregazzi and Thornton have begun staking out as their own territory what once belonged solely to Stella McCartney and her special brand of laid-back cool. There's no denying the appeal of clothes with such a sexy sense of ease.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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