February 03, 2008 New York
If the collection had a bit of a grab-bag feel and occasionally found the designer treading on familiar ground, it also had plenty of desirable moments. Som knows his customer, and she's not going to be lacking a wish list. He gave his clothes a compelling touch-me quality by creating texture with beads and feathers and autumnal tweeds. His inventive palette (cerise, lemon, navy, plum) was the result of his imagining what Arbus' black-and-white photos would look like in color. The "skewed" skirts with layered hems and buttoned-on panels of cloth may have been too studied in their quirkiness, but a mismatched blouse-and-skirt ensemble topped with a cheetah-print coat had an irresistible Grey Gardens-style charm.