Emilio Pucci

MILAN, February 21, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
There wasn't any falling snow—a point in Matthew Williamson's favor in a Milan season where runway precipitation has become a mini-trend—but it didn't take long to figure out that we were in Gstaad or St. Moritz. From the first look out, an egg-shaped coat, the designer established an icy pastel palette mixed with graphic white and black. The silhouettes were likewise well suited for the slopes (fur-lined parkas, shapely puffer jackets, ski-pant skinny leggings) or the rink (a slender turtleneck and tulip miniskirt). And to complete the picture, there were looks for lounging fireside in a suite at the Kulm Hotel. The furs came in several varieties: brightly colored patent shearlings in sporty shapes and glamorous dyed fox in more-is-more proportions.

Of course, it wouldn't be a Pucci show without a passel of print dresses. Today they ran the gamut, from sacks and shifts in jagged icicle patterns to flowy gowns in pleated chiffon. Not all of it worked; long jersey dresses, for instance, looked clunky atop the models' patent lace-up boots. But after five seasons, Williamson has hit on the formula: resort dressing for the rich and fabulous.

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