Rag & Bone
NEW YORK, February 1, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
"We wanted it to be sharp," said David Neville backstage after the Rag & Bone show, and sharp it was. Girly flourishes have sometimes tempted Neville and his design partner Marcus Wainwright, but they smartly cut out the frills for Fall, working off the twin inspirations of Blade Runner and the forties. Suits had a militaristic look, courtesy of jackets with strong shoulders and cutaway lapels, narrow ties clipped to starchy button-downs, and brass buttons with daggers on them.Outerwear, likewise, had a regimental air, be it a charcoal greatcoat or a black toggle jacket with an imposingly chic high collar. Softening all that swagger were jersey jodhpurs or leggings, and items like a long, belted sweater worn over a little mini and tights. And Neville and Wainwright didn't abandon the dress entirely. One short black number came with a stripe of jet crystals down the front and back. Another royal-blue hourglass bustier style had a built-in mesh bodice. But the strongest, like a stark black leather shift, were unadorned. After taking a few cracks at it, they¿ve managed to figure out a way to give the feminine elements of their collection the same edge as their reliably assured tailoring.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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