"We wanted it to be sharp," said David Neville backstage after the Rag & Bone show, and sharp it was. Girly flourishes have sometimes tempted Neville and his design partner Marcus Wainwright, but they smartly cut out the frills for Fall, working off the twin inspirations of Blade Runner and the forties. Suits had a militaristic look, courtesy of jackets with strong shoulders and cutaway lapels, narrow ties clipped to starchy button-downs, and brass buttons with daggers on them.

Outerwear, likewise, had a regimental air, be it a charcoal greatcoat or a black toggle jacket with an imposingly chic high collar. Softening all that swagger were jersey jodhpurs or leggings, and items like a long, belted sweater worn over a little mini and tights. And Neville and Wainwright didn't abandon the dress entirely. One short black number came with a stripe of jet crystals down the front and back. Another royal-blue hourglass bustier style had a built-in mesh bodice. But the strongest, like a stark black leather shift, were unadorned. After taking a few cracks at it, theyżve managed to figure out a way to give the feminine elements of their collection the same edge as their reliably assured tailoring.