Richard Chai
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 6, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
Six months ago, Richard Chai began honing his brand (logos, labels, and the like) with art director Fabien Baron. It was the ideal moment to step back and think hard about who he is as a designer. Well, judging by the Fall collection that had people buzzing, he has found himself."When you're starting out, you want to show everything you can do," Chai had said a few days before the show. "Now I feel like I have a new confidence within myself. This is my vision." The first look was a knockout: a tiny shearling jacket in forest green (so dark it was almost black) over a long sequined waistcoat, ivory shirt, and slouchy slim pants in a brocade with just a hint of texture. In typical Chai style, it was meticulous, incorporating his characteristic arced seams, but there was a new lightness, too. That feeling pervaded the entire collection, which flowed coherently from the masculine sexiness of pants and boots with biker jackets, and luxurious knits in woodsy colors, to the dresses his customers adore in bright bursts of color. The finale was a series of dresses in a chiffon photo print of the melted sequins that had embellished earlier pieces. It was a clever idea, though Chai somewhat spoiled the effect by applying it to a few too many looks. Still, that was a small blight on an otherwise strong effort. With a new men's collection this season as well, and concrete plans for a store by spring, this aspiring brand builder is on a roll.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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