For what was only their second runway show, Raffaele Borriello and Julien Desselle had an impressive array of retailers in the front row. The designers are alums of Dior, Gucci, and YSL, and as such bring more polish to their clothes than other newcomers on the schedule. But that doesn't mean they're immune to growing pains.

Moving on from last season's forties-meets-sixties theme, they cast their eyes toward Jerry Hall in her Studio 54 days. Predictable, perhaps, as an inspiration—but not necessarily unpromising. They turned out a few of the fur chubbies we've seen elsewhere in Paris, and hit on other Fall trends like ruffles (cascading down the bodice of one shift, circling the hem of another) and shine. But an oversize yellow, black, and white houndstooth looked garish, and the dirndl skirt they cut it in verged on dowdy. The couture feel they often refer to in interviews just wasn't there.