Richard Nicoll
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 13, 2008
By Sarah Mower
There's a wisdom in maintaining a certain thread of continuity between collections, especially when you're a young designer trying to impress your identity on the world. That idea must have been at the front of Richard Nicoll's mind when he followed up his Amish-organza-themed hit Spring show with more of the same: large, squared-off collars on dresses with semi-transparencies built into double-layered skirts. The clothes looked easier to wear than last season's more theoretical work, and there was no harm in showing them. The remaining question was whether Nicoll could complete the thought, or make it branch off interestingly in another direction—the sort of imaginative narrative that makes a fashion show a satisfying thing to watch.The answer is, he didn't. The rest of the collection was a bumpy ride with scant discernable connection between looks, shapes, and intentions. Not that there weren't bits and pieces that looked strong: a couple of businesslike blazers with short skirts, a navy cashmere shawl wrapped over soft pants and a blouse, and a long midnight-blue chiffon shirtdress with a bow at the neck, to name a few. Had he just concentrated on building off those looks, the collection would've seemed far more resolved.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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