Rodnik
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 13, 2008
By Tim Blanks
"It's the first time a brand became a band onstage," enthused Philip Colbert about Rodnik's show, where models weaved around Colbert (on vocals), Richard Ascott (on drums), and aide-de-camp Lily Evans (giving go-go support). In truth, things got pretty shambolic as they squalled their way through three songs (including "Firebird," which comes with its own "choreography").Of course, any criticism—either of performance or clothes—had been preempted by Colbert's declaration that "amateur is not a dirty word." And yet it was confounding to see how far the Rodnik twosome have taken their self-mythologizing gall. Their faces—as interpreted by the artist Hugo Guinness—made up a boldly graphic print with the parasols and top hats that have been personal style signatures. The same faces adorned all the buttons (even the tiny red ones hidden in the cuffed three-quarter sleeve of a black dress).
After parting company with their design staff, Ascott and Colbert took a hands-on approach with this collection. Given that neither has a jot of formal design training, it was wise of them to stick to the simplest silhouettes: a T-shirt dress, a shift, a jacket dress with a slightly dropped waist. A collaboration with famed bespoke shirtmaker Emma Willis yielded a tuxedo-fronted, French-cuffed little black dress (though its synthetic hand somewhat undercut the item's visual appeal). That's the kind of strategic alliance that has characterized Rodnik's rise. Will it last? Well, they claim to value chic as much as amateurism, which means that at some point they'll surely have to test their rock band/brand in a more demanding arena.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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