Rue du Mail
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 29, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Now in its third season, Martine Sitbon's Rue du Mail is shaping up as a dress and coat label. With beetles (yes, insects, not the band) as her starting point for Fall, the light, flyaway feeling of the designer's Spring collection was replaced by a more structured yet voluminous look—one that jibed with several other directional Paris shows. True to the stated inspiration, duchesse satin toppers had carapacelike backs—Sitbon described them backstage as "protective shells." Other coats were narrow through the torso, then bubbled below the waist and from elbow to wrist. Similarly, silk sack dresses came quilted in interesting curvilinear patterns, while crinkled patent-leather frocks kept to the theme with their rigid silhouettes.Beyond shape, it was the insect's iridescence that turned Sitbon on. Her colors ranged from deep peacock green and eggplant to what she called "neon darks." These appeared on handkerchief silk dresses in abstract wing prints, a motif that she also worked into embroideries of paillettes and patent leather. With no pants and few tops and skirts for diversity, the show became repetitive. But Sitbon has a knack for a special dress, as her front-row fans Sofia Coppola and Emmanuelle Seigner are well aware, and it shouldn't, uh, bug anyone if she chooses to concentrate on her strengths.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
