Ruffian
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 2, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Brian Wolk and Claude Morais have closed the book on Madame de Pompadour, their Spring muse. For Fall, they said their inspiration was boarding-school girls with serious rebellious streaks. Yes, they still did ruffles: You can't have a Ruffian show without them. But any frills were tempered by biker-boy belt buckles, graffiti prints, and lots of curve-hugging Japanese denim, designed in collaboration with Earnest Sewn. And that's not to mention the ultraviolet lipstick or killer sandals made by Christian Louboutin.Reinterpretations of prep-school uniforms—the schoolgirl dress, the fitted jacket worn over a white oxford with a narrow tie, the oversize boyfriend blazer—go with this territory, of course. It was the designers' clever take on off-campus attire that stood out: a Baja jacket in French bouclé that topped a black mini, shirtwaist dresses in a print from a 1939 Vogue listing of boarding schools, and a bustier minidress with you've-got-to-see-it-to-believe-it graffiti needlepoint circling the waist. In sum, this was Ruffian's most youthful and imaginative collection to date.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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