Sophia Kokosalaki
PARIS, February 28, 2008
By Sarah Mower
The image of a forceful, slightly sinister form of womanhood is becoming insuppressible this season. Why? "It's the superwoman, really," said Sophia Kokosalaki after sending out her collection of shape-enhancing body dresses and dramatically sculptured lace silhouettes. "I've been inspired by fantastic art—sort of comic book, heavy metal illustrations. I thought, 'They're kind of cool, if only they had more taste!' "Kokosalaki's curvaceous matte-black dresses, cut with minute jigsaw details in the bust and sinuous straps wound around the neck and back, gave an erotic counterpoint of her own to one of the leading themes that are emerging now. She also dealt with sheer-opaque lace and organza in black dresses with intricate curliform cutouts and transparent 3-D sleeves twisted into the shape of stylized waves. It's a kind of dressmaking Kokosalaki has been perfecting for ages—one that always weaves in a consciousness of her Greek roots, visible in the minute macramé inserts she uses, or, more obviously, the lyre motif placed in the neckline of the long, sinuous gown in her finale. As a practical girl, she always gives thought, too, to something to wear for day—a couple of dark green slicker macs were good—but it's the evolution of Kokosalaki's elegant but non-chichi vision of how to dress for evening that marks her out as a talent.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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