Central Saint Martins
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 15, 2008
By Sarah Mower
The Central Saint Martins M.A. class of 2008 had a lot to live up to—if they had any doubt about that, they could have glanced at the front row and gotten very nervous indeed. There were the alumni who have gone before them to spark up London fashion week: Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll, and Todd Lynn. (Louise Goldin, this year's knitwear sensation, would have been there too, but was ill in bed with the flu.) Also gathered were ranks of industry professionals, buyers, and fashion executives from Puma, who were giving out prizes for accessory design (€40,000 worth of Saint Martins student-designed trainers were sold in stores last year).Why do all and sundry turn out to inspect what is, after all, a student show? Partly to take the temperature of what young people are thinking, and partly to be first to crown the next star. This year, though, was a quiet one, with only a couple of outstanding collections. The first was from Mary Katrantzou, who used giant trompe l'oeil digital prints on bonded jersey dresses in the shape of necklaces. The other was by Simone Shailes—she swept up a L'Oréal trophy for her loopy cardigans and sweaters made out of chunky fringed tiers, which had been inspired, she explained, by "girls with funny big hairdos." Shailes is another talent to join the likes of Louise Goldin, Clare Tough, Sid Bryan, and Hans Christian Madsen, who are knitting up a minor storm in London—collectively stirring interest in extreme, cobwebby, multi-patterned, and sculpturally textural effects (and a rising craze for woolly chubbies). On the whole, though, an unusually subdued and polite cohort passed out of Central Saint Martins this year, a group more focused on making wearable clothes in beige, black, and white than rocking the house. Is that a sign of the times?
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
