The charm-laden froth—the fluff, spirals, and romantic drapes—that Tao Kurihara has made her signature were well represented today. The show opened with a silver-foil sack dress ruffled at the neckline and embroidered with a daisy chain of black ribbon. But, sweetly playful mood established, Kurihara did change tack slightly. Layering on the sinister, she built her twisting, voluminous silhouettes with black-and-gray boleros, drippy with loose, metallic Lurex threads. Black lipstick and ribbed-knit turtlenecks, and dresses with sleeves that inched past the tips of slender fingers, added to the collection's at times witchy spell.

Still, in the end, sweet won out. Kurihara wove candy colors into the picture, tying a fuzzy aqua cape over a turquoise jacket and coordinating plaid balloon shorts, and layering violet or shocking-pink cardigans over T-shirts and knit bloomers. And those black lips were matched by girl-power scribbles ("Be aware," "Be powerful") below the models' eyes. Together, it added up to a poetic and idiosyncratic take on the sweater-dressing trend, as well as on the season's artful, statement outerwear. That the designer could've gotten her messages across in fewer looks and at a less stately pace is but a quibble.