February 03, 2008 New York
"I want to apply aggressive elements on soft, refined silhouettes," Panichgul said. The aggro was expressed with tailored felt Mao jackets, a graffiti print, zipper-tooth trimmings, and a "breakaway dress" composed of pieces of fuchsia wool shaped like shards of broken glass floating on a sheer underlay. But Panichgul would clearly rather make love than war. The show's standouts were definitely on the tender side: quilted floral coats and languorous thirties-style dresses that recalled the English-romantic costumes of Atonement.
Although there were some rough patches (the pattern-mixing seemed forced, and there were some gimmicky flourishes), overall this was a pretty effort. Fall was like a good girl who really wishes she could go bad and look messed up for a change, but just doesn't have it in her to look anything but nice.