United Bamboo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 2, 2008
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Over the past year, Thuy Pham and Miho Aoki's explorations of architecture and origami have been quite literal-minded, replete with references to geodesic domes and Herzog and de Meuron. The result was Fall 2007 and Spring 2008 collections that were somewhat heavy-handed, somewhat predictable. Well, third time's the charm: This season, their more abstracted construction gestures—as in the opening look, a black coat with a folded, beaded collar, or the cerulean jacket with 3-D prism pockets—kept the proceedings more light-handed and interesting. The appropriately upbeat music was put together by Karen O of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs, who sat front-row with band member Nick Zinner.United Bamboo is known for blending slightly twisted takes on preppy classics with kawaii elements. Cute returned for autumn with a leitmotif of bows, which popped up in different forms throughout the show. If some experiments with industrial materials (like a sequined dress with an overlay of cord and metallic tubes) fell flat, a series of ladylike blouses paired with paper bag-waist pants and skirts lifted the duo to higher ground.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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