Undercover
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 25, 2008
By Sarah Mower
Jun Takahashi took on America in his Fall collection. At least that was part of his scope, which, he said, involved a self-interrogation about the meaning of fashion standards, from men's tailoring to parkas, cargo pants, sweats, and rugged outdoor wear. Each of Takahashi's ten themes appeared as a tableau mounted on a turning dais, modeled by girls with latex-covered cone beehives.Scene by scene, the show evolved into a gentle dialogue about hybridization that contributed some of the season's best thoughts about casual street wear (which is, let's face it, a much-neglected area in most designers' books). Takahashi's strongest pieces inserted a sense of alternative Japanese cool into sweatshirting (an indigo-dyed curvilinear top, a pullover dress made from a gray hoodie top half and a khaki camping skirt) and some brilliant amalgams of nylon down padding and "hunter" oiled-cotton jackets. Parkas came recast in drapey viscose, and motorcycle pants were zippered collages of leather, knit, waxed cotton, and buckles that could give Dsquared² a run for its money. Best, though, were the pieces that pushed the avant-garde Undercover ethos furthest—a spiky, tufted knit cardigan that gave a fierce spin on the season's ubiquitous chubby, and a belted biker coat implanted with fox-fur sleeves.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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