After a dress-heavy tenth-anniversary Spring show, Veronique Branquinho narrowed her sights on tailoring. She placed the emphasis for Fall on a strong, built-up shoulder, in which you could see references to her fellow Belgian Martin Margiela, if you were looking. What made her jackets and coats her own were their touchable fabrics—gray flannel, astrakhan-imprinted rabbit fur, and plaid mohair—not to mention her penchant for layering their matching straight and A-line skirts over skinny faux-leather leggings. Branquinho likes to play the buttoned-up against the edgy.

That came across in a number of sleeveless, V-neck, drop-waist nylon dresses. Worn over slim turtlenecks, they had something of the school uniform about them, save for the artful patchworks of fabrics built into their accordion-pleated skirts. Jersey shifts color-blocked in heather gray and black, and lace frocks in copper or emerald green rounded out an understated collection. Branquinho didn't add much to this season's fashion conversation, but the smart, self-possessed girls who number among her fans will find things to like.