Viktor & Rolf
PARIS, February 26, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
"We love fashion, but it's going so fast. We wanted to say 'No' this season." Thus spoke Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren to a group of devoted fans and curious reporters eager to parse the meaning of a somewhat difficult Fall show that began with a precise gray trench, the word "No" popping out from its chest in 3-D, and ended with a strapless black tulle dress gathered below the knee and embroidered with the phrase "Dream on."More than three weeks into the collections, with another five days left to go, no one is going to argue the point with the Dutch designers. And they did manage to express the frustrations we all feel, with characteristic irony: with staples (as in metal fastenings, not wardrobe classics). They were golden staples, to be precise, and they stood in for seams at the waist of a peplum jacket and in pleats on a pair of baggy trousers; they fastened ruffles to the shoulder and hem of an asymmetrical party frock; and they became a form of glam embroidery on a strapless, tiered gown. Without them, these clothes (the frilled organza blouses, the nipped-waist red sheath, the belted fox coat) would've landed squarely on the predictable side of French chic. With them, and in such great numbers, the results felt gimmicky.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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