Vera Wang
NEW YORK, February 7, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
In past seasons Vera Wang has voyaged back in time to czarist Russia or ancient Rome, with the result that her collections sometimes appeared too much like costume. But for Fall she took her color cue from the modernist painter Kees van Dongen, and her strongest influence, believe it or not, was the street.There was a hipper edge to her layered silhouettes. It came across most clearly in youthful-looking sleeveless peplum tops in techno brocade or pleated ottoman, worn with tapering satin leggings. The sculptural bed jackets in quilted faille were equally cool. This isn't to say Wang has abandoned the luxe she loves: We saw more of the burnished bullion embroidery and the crystal and jet jewelry, including knockout cuffs by Philip Crangi, that she's used in previous seasons. Her latest obsession, though, is manipulating fabrics. She worked organza and felt into lavish florets—spiraling around the waist or perched on the shoulder—and grand ruffles cascaded down the front of a kimono jacket (note: an early Fall trend). As emphasized by the huge mirrors at the top of the runway, a great deal of the focus here was on the back of the garments. Take, for instance, an embroidered top with a tutu train, or a broadtail and fox jacket with a bustle. Wang is a designer who finesses every tiny detail, and this time, there wasn't a single stitch out of place.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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