Yigal Azrouël
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 1, 2008
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
The Israeli designer traded in the chill, sunbaked surfer scene of his Spring show for a bit of New York attitude. His 47-piece collection was shown against a hyperkinetic video backdrop shot on an alphabet soup of subway lines in the span of about two weeks by Chiara Clemente (who is soon to release Our City Dreams, a film portrait of five women artists living in Gotham). Before the show, Azrouël said that he wanted to stress the individuality of each look, which goes some way toward explaining the sometimes puzzling confluences. The mix brought to mind the sort of outfits you might see on strange seat-fellows crowded together on a rush-hour IRT car: a delicate dress embroidered with feathers, for example, jostling for space with plaid asymmetric shirtdresses, a pair of saggy-seated washed-leather stovepipe pants, and Alaïa-esque separates. Over the past few seasons, Azrouël's work has had a somewhat scruffed-up effect—the best example being his shrunken leather jackets—but the strongest looks in Fall's mash-up were draped and suspended pieces that didn't look like they were trying to "be" anything (or prove anything). These, no doubt, were the good things that happened when Azrouël, as he put it, "let the fabric tell me what to do."
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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