Armand Basi One
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2009
By Sarah Mower
It's amazing how quickly designers are burrowing down into the early eighties for inspiration, and who's coming back up with what. At Armand Basi, Markus Lupfer hit on an as-yet-unexplored seam: not the neon graffiti New York club scene beloved by Marc Jacobs, but the dark, furious, feminist fashion counterpoint that was exploding on the Paris runway at the same time, thanks to Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto.Oddly, the notes on seats credited Helmut Newton and the Bauhaus as sources, though Newton was hardly a known fan of stomping flat brothel-creepers; extreme drop-crotch pants; or the kind of figure-enveloping, giant-shouldered shapes Lupfer sent out. That's not to quarrel too much with what the designer actually showed: something between the monochrome moodiness of the Japanese and memories of that short-lived yet hard to forget New Wave poseur phase when the likes of Ultravox or A Flock of Seagulls were taking themselves awfully seriously. For trend hounds, that meant the collection ticked all the right sort of boxes with its coolly sloppy dolman-sleeved biker jackets, voluminous-shouldered capes, skinny knit leggings, and grommet-perforated asymmetric knitwear. Thankfully, Lupfer managed not to overstep the mark that would have turned it into editorial-only historical pastiche, making it the strongest collection he's yet turned out for the Spanish label.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
I
Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
-
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
