Armand Basi One
February 20, 2009 London
Oddly, the notes on seats credited Helmut Newton and the Bauhaus as sources, though Newton was hardly a known fan of stomping flat brothel-creepers; extreme drop-crotch pants; or the kind of figure-enveloping, giant-shouldered shapes Lupfer sent out. That's not to quarrel too much with what the designer actually showed: something between the monochrome moodiness of the Japanese and memories of that short-lived yet hard to forget New Wave poseur phase when the likes of Ultravox or A Flock of Seagulls were taking themselves awfully seriously. For trend hounds, that meant the collection ticked all the right sort of boxes with its coolly sloppy dolman-sleeved biker jackets, voluminous-shouldered capes, skinny knit leggings, and grommet-perforated asymmetric knitwear. Thankfully, Lupfer managed not to overstep the mark that would have turned it into editorial-only historical pastiche, making it the strongest collection he's yet turned out for the Spanish label.