Alessandro Dell'Acqua
MILAN, February 28, 2009
By Sarah Mower
If there's one item of desire to take away from the Fall collections in Milan, it might turn out to be something as low-key as a loose, slouchy, very luxurious mushroom suede coat. When all the noise and the pointy shoulders and the flogged-to-tedium eighties referencing is forgotten, pieces like the one Alessandro Dell'Aqua slipped onto the runway at the beginning of his show might prove to be the cool survivor.While watching a Dell'Acqua show, a useful observation like that often pops up, even if there is no overarching moment to scribble down. He's good at nailing the single item, even if in truth most of his show is dutifully in step with the general Milanese way of doing things. Inevitably, then, Dell'Acqua was off to the disco with everyone else in town this season, except he'd had a vision of Joan of Arc on his way there—as if she were photographed by Bill King in the seventies. If that almost puts him in the laugh-out-loud category of fashion inspiration, the chain-mail knitwear tunics, fur, and feather and sequins he put together were no less pointless than some of his peers' notions for nightlife. And apart from his covetable coats, Dell'Acqua also did an original needle-heeled shoe: an assembly of crocodile, suede straps, and chain mail that would also be worthy of seeing the light of day next fall.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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