Alberta Ferretti
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 27, 2009
By Sarah Mower
It's increasingly difficult, and ultimately pointless, to try to parse an Alberta Ferretti runway show as if it were a "collection" with a theme. Instead, it is what it is: an assortment of this and that, with sporadic touches of trend and a bit of something for everyone. For Fall, that meant a 15-minute parade that included magenta, aqua, and ocher color-blocking in chiffon and tailoring; eighties black leather; a glitter-shoulder rock-chick body-con dress; Art Deco flapperwear; sober gray wool pieces; and metallic brocade Edwardiana party frocks.That said, the content never veered too far off the known Ferretti path. She showed her staples: feminine coats, pretty chiffon (now cut into billowy blouses—a less expensive addition to her signature line of dresses), and bugle-beaded eveningwear (the best piece was a silvery twenties number on Jourdan Dunn). In Ferretti's stores, with the collection merchandised into logical groupings and with her inarguable knowledge of what women need from clothes for a broad spectrum of events and eventualities, her "stories" will undoubtedly all hang together in a perfectly orchestrated whole. Stringing them along back-to-back in a linear fashion, however, doesn't make a narrative.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
