A.F. Vandevorst
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 5, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst are on their own trip. For Fall, they dreamed up a nomad who's "at home wherever she goes." They explained: She wears clothes with interesting new volumes constructed by integrating the squares, triangles, and circles of multiculti folkloric patterns into Western silhouettes.On the more obvious side, this concept resulted in a sleeping-bag coat in wool felt quilted up the back with geometric shapes; and silk dresses and rabbit-fur vests checkerboarded or chevroned in complementary shades of green, gray, and brown. On the subtler side, it produced trenches with built-out shoulders and a floor-length dress with eye-grabbing diamond-shaped insets on the sides. Tangentially, there were dolman-sleeved cotton shirts in horse-blanket stripes (one in loden green and black, the other ivory and black) worn with jodhpurs. But, unsurprisingly, this wasn't equestrian like you've seen it on other runways: Note the platform boots that looked like horse hooves. Still, footwear aside, this collection contained plenty of real-world clothes, not always a given at an A.F. Vandevorst show, and Filip and An should be taking plenty of girls along for the ride this season.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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