Andrew Gn traded in the lush, tropical colors of his Spring show for a more subdued Fall lineup of black, white, and herringbone tweed, with shots of teal, bronze, and bottle green. Last season's gold-bullion embroidery and gobstopper-size crystal and gem embellishments have been downsized, too—replaced by less flashy surface detailing: trims of patent leather, snake, or (in his made-to-measure Atelier line) mock croc. These appeared on the neckline of a red cocktail dress, at the waistband of cropped and tapered pants, at the edges of geometric cutouts on silk blouses, and on the toggle closures of slim-line coats.

If some of Gn's more tony ladies are forced by his new restraint to look elsewhere for their trifles, his daywear's dark and moody vibe is likely to win him some hip new customers. It will probably prove a savvy move to have dialed down the before-dark glitz in a collection he dubbed "utility couture."

Evening was another story, however. His floor-length columns came with jewels nestled into their necklines or perched on one shoulder. The best was a chiffon number with hand-stitched organza bell sleeves and iridescent crystal embroidery inspired by thirties Cartier jewelry. Gn knows that the only utility in a gown is its ability to turn heads.