Andrew Gn
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 8, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Andrew Gn traded in the lush, tropical colors of his Spring show for a more subdued Fall lineup of black, white, and herringbone tweed, with shots of teal, bronze, and bottle green. Last season's gold-bullion embroidery and gobstopper-size crystal and gem embellishments have been downsized, too—replaced by less flashy surface detailing: trims of patent leather, snake, or (in his made-to-measure Atelier line) mock croc. These appeared on the neckline of a red cocktail dress, at the waistband of cropped and tapered pants, at the edges of geometric cutouts on silk blouses, and on the toggle closures of slim-line coats.If some of Gn's more tony ladies are forced by his new restraint to look elsewhere for their trifles, his daywear's dark and moody vibe is likely to win him some hip new customers. It will probably prove a savvy move to have dialed down the before-dark glitz in a collection he dubbed "utility couture."
Evening was another story, however. His floor-length columns came with jewels nestled into their necklines or perched on one shoulder. The best was a chiffon number with hand-stitched organza bell sleeves and iridescent crystal embroidery inspired by thirties Cartier jewelry. Gn knows that the only utility in a gown is its ability to turn heads.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
