Akris' profile is on the upswing lately, thanks to Angelina Jolie, who wore a minimal white suit from the Swiss label during the press junket for The Curious Case of Benjamin Button. Designer Albert Kriemler, an avowed architecture buff, found inspiration for Fall in a pavilion in China's Jinhua Architecture Park designed by Mexico's Tatiana Bilbao. The result was a trapezoidal leitmotif that materialized as the geometric embroidery on the tulle sleeves of a fitted wool dress, on the geometric quilting of a bomber jacket, and on a floor-length number with a front constructed of interconnected trapezoids (one editor cracked that it looked like tile swatches).

If there was a heavy-handedness to such pieces, there were others that gave glimpses of the sort of understatement that makes the likes of Jolie a fan. Take a deep bordeaux long-line vest in double wool crepe with a slightly padded shoulder and matching pants; a black-purple cashmere leather-belted coat; or a crackly glazed-wool tailored top worn with a matching skirt. Chic and wearable, they proved again that Kriemler is at his best when he thinks simple.