Bruno Pieters
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 5, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Backstage, Bruno Pieters mentioned Eckhart Tolle's book A New Earth as a source of inspiration. Apparently, it got him thinking about evolution, out of which evolved a color palette that ranged from shimmering black to forest green to metallic-bronze tweed. But never mind the natural colors; this Belgian designer doesn't do earthy. In step with last season, he approached his tailored coat-dresses and skirtsuits with a mathematical precision—piecing them together from squares and triangles; inserting origami-like panels at the waistline; planting large, flat bows at the neck; and layering the sharp, fitted results over second-skin turtlenecks, platform pumps, and opaque black tights.With their shiny black-red lips and severe samurai ponytails, many of which were obscured by big hoods, the models looked like members of a uniformed tribe from outer space. As for where the collection fits back on terra firma, there were a few elements that stood out in the rather narrowly focused whole: Pieters' little jackets and capes, for example, could be contenders for the kind of girl who wants a subtle, anonymous take on the season's dominant shoulder.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
