Backstage, Bruno Pieters mentioned Eckhart Tolle's book A New Earth as a source of inspiration. Apparently, it got him thinking about evolution, out of which evolved a color palette that ranged from shimmering black to forest green to metallic-bronze tweed. But never mind the natural colors; this Belgian designer doesn't do earthy. In step with last season, he approached his tailored coat-dresses and skirtsuits with a mathematical precision—piecing them together from squares and triangles; inserting origami-like panels at the waistline; planting large, flat bows at the neck; and layering the sharp, fitted results over second-skin turtlenecks, platform pumps, and opaque black tights.

With their shiny black-red lips and severe samurai ponytails, many of which were obscured by big hoods, the models looked like members of a uniformed tribe from outer space. As for where the collection fits back on terra firma, there were a few elements that stood out in the rather narrowly focused whole: Pieters' little jackets and capes, for example, could be contenders for the kind of girl who wants a subtle, anonymous take on the season's dominant shoulder.