February 25, 2009
Rosella Jardini's show notes promised "surrealism and ruffles, with humor." The surrealism came in the form of belts that stayed in place despite being permanently unbelted, pearls that looked like they were ready to spill from their ropes but never did, and shoes that were part pump, part sandal depending on your viewing angle. The ruffles were absolutely everywhere— as a photo print on a trench, spilling down one side of a black pencil skirt in Schiaparelli pink, or at the collar of a marigold bubble coat. As for the humor element? It had its moments, as in a party dress bisected by two black ribbons that gave new meaning to the phrase "tied with a bow." But it just wasn't a big enough idea to sustain the collection, which, though charming at times, ended up feeling slightly repetitive.