Carolina Herrera
NEW YORK, February 16, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Carolina Herrera believes in pretty. The world as we know it is crumbling around us, but you wouldn't think so looking at her lovely collection—and there's a certain strength in maintaining that sense of poise under pressure. If she acknowledged the recession at all, she did so by forsaking the elaborate embroideries she usually favors. In their place were rich, textured fabrics, be it the metallic gazar of a blouse and corset, the glinting lace of a high-waisted skirt, or the forest-green striped cloque of a corset gown and matching scarf. Herrera has always had an eye for special materials, and for Fall there was an almost three-dimensional two-tone jacquard—lapis blue with gray, or cassis with caviar. She used it to great, graphic effect, accentuating the curves of the waist on a long-sleeved day dress, a narrow pantsuit, and a swagged one-shoulder gown alike.Despite a concentration on grand eveningwear, the collection didn't feel stuffy. A double-faced crepe jacket was tossed over a fils coupe long dress in the same shade of blue, while a substantial copper waist-cincher finished off the asymmetrical bodice of a gown with one bracelet sleeve and the other strap languidly slipping from the model's bare shoulder. Herrera may have used copper—not gold—in this case, but at this house it's still a gilded existence.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
