Calvin Klein
NEW YORK, February 19, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
If the minimalism of Francisco Costa's Spring show veered into sci-fi territory, Fall has come back to earth—and to the body. Whereas last season was all about soft, three-dimensional geometries, the focus now is on fabrics and texture. Costa opened with a black coat with an asymmetrical neckline and a crescent hem that was pieced together like a jigsaw puzzle from wool and silk jacquard. He worked that paneling motif into a sleeveless sheath with slightly built-up shoulders, a bold flap jacket, and even a clingy knit mock turtleneck worn with a trim and neat pencil skirt.Continuing on, his experiments with surface treatments produced a skirtsuit from a holey felted wool that looked like lace and a gorgeous one-shoulder dress (in a season full of them) with plissé detail trailing across the bust. A laser-cut velvet dress in sulfur—when Costa deviates from black or charcoal, it's for something that really pops—proved once and for all that minimalism doesn't have to mean masculine. Which gets back to the point about the body. These were rigorous, defined, precise clothes, but they were also sexy. Nicely done.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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