"Each season I fall more in love with architecture," Carlos Miele said backstage, discussing the graphic geometric prints that anchored his latest effort. Although some of his patterned eveningwear felt too busy for even the most vivacious São Paulinas, of which there were a few in attendance, a burn-out technique applied to mink coats had better results. Miele once collaborated with Sol LeWitt, the American artist known for spatial manipulation, and the experience has clearly stayed with him; hence the origamilike detail on boleros and the designer's signature gowns.

Before he started designing for the red carpet, the Brazilian made a name for himself with denim in his native country. A new ultra-luxe jean line, introduced today, is a smart strategy to lure stateside customers who think of Miele only for special occasions.