Comme des Garçons
March 06, 2009 Paris
"Wonderland," Kawakubo called it afterward, "where nothing is as it seems." There was something of trompe l'oeil involved, in a childlike kind of way. Naked toes were sketched on the uppers of men's lace-ups and moccasins, and the outlines of jackets were drawn on the front of some garments. Tailcoats were superimposed on larger greatcoats. Sections of khaki fatigues, or maybe military tents, were collaged in. Ethnic blanket prints became involved, too. And then, finally, there were super-fragile silhouettes that had pale, padded blanket edgings sewn in to indicate vestigial jackets. Conclusions were hard to draw, unless it was an allusive statement about the difficulty of understanding anything in these most confusing of times.
As to wearability? Once dismantled and seen on a rail in the Comme des Garçons showroom, Kawakubo's work normally becomes easier to incorporate into a real wardrobe. At a guess, there will be many coat options, and the netting pieces could translate as useful styling accessories over cocktail or eveningwear. And anyway: Kawakubo is so smart at retail practice that she will undoubtedly (as always) be rendering the ideas in this collection down to a line of T-shirts.