Costume National
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 8, 2009
By Tim Blanks
Ennio Capasa conjures his women from some hard-core planet where it's always time for nightclubbing—and the nightclub is the one from a David Lynch movie. For Fall, the fatale of the Costume femme was slightly rough around the edges: red lips; messy, pulled-back hair; and a one-shouldered dress in ruby duchesse satin with ragged seams. There were dresses with halos of trailing Lurex threads, and others haphazardly ruched and suspended from shoulder straps. The phrase "dragged through a hedge backward" came to mind—but such is the strange, louche allure of Capasa's work.He did, meanwhile, also prove himself quite capable of a certain bandbox smartness, as seen in a gray flannel fingertip jacket over a matching wrapped mini. But it was more the sparkly, scratchy-looking fabric he used for a strapless top or a paper-bag-waist mini that betrayed the true Nationality of Capasa's Costume. Now and forever, he loves a bad girl.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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