"My references are all over the map," said Chloë Sevigny, "from skinheads to Connecticut kids to St. Mark's Place. But this all really started because I wanted to make a pink flannel shirt!" The result: androgyny with an indie/preppy slant. Sevigny's second collaboration with Opening Ceremony
is a menswear collection that also comes scaled down to fit girls. The low-key mish-mash of moleskin pants, wool bombers (with matching backpacks), Fair Isles, long johns, oversize leopard and tiger knits, and other retooled Brit street-tribe and American classics were being worn by a group of friends and street-cast locals who mooched around at the Double Club in London. The laid-back Sunday scene was a hastily convened pit stop for Sevigny, who was briefly en route from Wales to Spain to finish a biopic of Howard Marks with Rhys Ifans. (Though it wasn't such a flying visit that she couldn't find time to score a pair of vintage high-waisted zip-sided black leather Montana shorts at Rellick, which she had on with one of her own shell-pink camp shirts and killer biker-style multi-strapped wedges.) One thing Sevigny has right is proportion and sizing—technically trickier to pull off in a unisex line than it might appear. The accessories, too, are strong: Western belts, creepers, and a collaboration with Bass that includes penny loafers and saddle shoes. Seeing Sevigny in the high-waisted, pleat-front trousers she describes as "a full David Bowie-Ossie Clark pant" might also be enough to convince anyone that boy style works. The reservation, though, is the quality of the fabric—a letdown compared with the styling.