February 12, 2009
The best way to understand David Delfin's collection, titled "Revelations," is to know that the designer—who imported his collection from Madrid to New York for Fall—plays a small role in Pedro Almovódar's Broken Embraces. That simple factoid made sudden sense of the show's progression: It opened with strict and lean torero tailoring and closed with proto-fetishwear. A black wool top with floor-sweeping fringe added a touch of the surreal, while the counterpoint of black and white was, at times, almost ecclesiastic (when you averted your eyes from the uncompromising skintight fit and the models' sky-high patent pumps). If the sheer striped pieces looked like they were headed straight to video (cue the steamy music), a group of color-blocked "Chessy Rayner dresses," as one editor called them, were simply elegant. Delfin might have veered rather radically between the tacky and the tasteful, but he has a strong point of view, and that's worth its weight in oro.