D&G
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 27, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
In 1954, Maria Callas recorded a memorable version of Bellini's Norma at the Cinema Metropol, the theater where today Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana stage their fashion shows. With the legendary soprano for inspiration, their D&G collection was unapologetically operatic. Bustier dresses with lampshade miniskirts came in brocade, jewel-studded velvet, or tapestry-print chiffon, while a bustier top was paired with high-waisted jeans encrusted with big, colorful crystals. And because every diva needs a cape (a strong theme here in Milan), there was a version in ocelot-print ponyskin and another in gray fur with a collar that looked like chinchilla. The colors—ocher, burgundy, cadet blue, and black—were as lush and rich as the collection's furniture fabrics, but point d'esprit and tulle tutus in pastels worn with T-shirts printed with Callas' image lightened the mix.As a foil to the sweetness, the designers threw in some tailcoats with trompe l'oeil frogging and gaiter pants. The models marched down the red-carpeted runway in sky-high platforms with curtain swags in their hair. You could picture some of these clothes finding their way onto the narrow shoulders of young starlets on the premiere circuit. Dolce and Gabbana's message was loud and clear: "The show must go on."
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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