Emporio Armani
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 26, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Just over a week ago, Giorgio Armani opened a sweeping three-story flagship to house all of his labels under one roof on Fifth Avenue in New York. It was the party of fashion week—with a celebrity contingent that included Leonardo DiCaprio and Victoria Beckham, the glow of flashbulbs popping could be seen for blocks. Today, though, Armani set aside grown-up glamour for a moment, sending out an Emporio collection that had a much more youthful, sometimes schoolgirl-ish feel. That was due not only to the styling—sheer kneesocks accompanied nearly every look—but also to the silhouette. In place of the artful and quirky pants the designer is so fond of, there were pleated shorts for day and evening, along with a fair number of shorter skirts and baby-doll dresses.That's not to say Armani ignored the many Emporio customers who no longer qualify as ingenues. His show had jackets and coats to tempt them. He started with a zip-front, collarless trench (though that's as masculine as things got). A pair of fitted jackets in soft, washed leather with ruffles at the collar stood out, but bouclé tweeds and velvets also made the lineup, as did knit cardigan-style toppers. What was seductive about those was their drape, the way they hugged the lines of the shoulders and torso without clinging. This something-for-everyone collection means Armani's new store on Fifth Avenue just might be an ideal mother-daughter shopping spot.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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