Elise Øverland
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 14, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Shakira wore Elise Øverland's black leather leggings to perform at the Lincoln Memorial concert two days before the inauguration. So it was hardly a surprise to see a surfeit of leather at the designer's Fall presentation; what was exciting were all the ways she found to manipulate and treat it. A soft little blazer in what looked like purple lamé was in fact a spray-painted lambskin. Another jacket, this one boxier, cropped, and trimmed with mirrored paillettes sourced in India, was made from scratched and coated lambskin that had the stiff consistency of much more expensive eel. "Shimmer" was the show's theme, inspired, Øverland said, by a book about Japanese sushi given to her by her friend Alexander Rower. The same friend also happened to loan the designer his grandfather Alexander Calder's gold jewelry. Not all of the clothes lived up to the artist's timeless necklaces and crowns; some suffered by comparison. But other numbers, like a little cocktail dress with one studded shoulder strap, were plenty cool all on their own.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
