Erdem
LONDON, February 23, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Intense focus on individual creativity and quality of execution are the driving forces behind this season's London shows. They've propelled Erdem Moralioglu into a place where he could almost be called the Christian Lacroix of London: a super-decorator and colorist who commands print and embroideries in ways that surpass expectations—especially those of someone who is based in the East End. For Fall, Moralioglu's silhouettes were mostly variations on a theme: a short, doll-like, Empire line with a puffed-up skirt. It was a step away from his waftily romantic Summer collection: "I thought, She's not running free and romantic in the meadows this season," he said. "Now she's visited nightclubs and gone home on the bus." Still, it was hard to see followers of Erdem being less than entranced with the surface details—cutout black lace applied dramatically to red duchesse satin, and stylized red, purple, and black chrysanthemums or tiny yellow violas embroidered by a fellow Royal College of Art alumnus who lives in Brighton and happens to have something approaching the interpretive techniques of Lesage. If all this sounds grandiose and pretentious, the saving grace was that it was all designed within the sphere of a young girl's mentality. Toward the end, though, there was a passage of long, slim dresses with long sleeves strong enough to make several grown-up women in the audience take notice.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
